Nusa Lembongan: The Devil Cries Here

It is true. The Devil does cry. And sometimes when he does, he sends you rainbows.

DT 1
At Devil’s Tears, Nusa Lembongan

On the islands of Nusa Lembongan at Devil’s Tears, exploding waves against its limestone cliffs can cause such a boom that the local folks have aptly named it the Devil. As the waves crash on this rocky outcrop close to the popular Dream Beach, its vigorous spray of water forms the perfect setting against sunlight for the formation of rainbows.

Gently walking along the rocky outcrop, there are plenty of attractive spots close to the ridges to wait for waves large enough to wow you and wet you. The danger is not only in getting too close to the edge, but also in overstaying as you continue to be beguiled by the endless stream of waves and rainbows. Watch out for the many less-than-mindful selfie-stick bearing tourists.

Blue Lagoon
Blue Lagoon, Nusa Ceningan

To get to Devil’s Tears, I sat pillion on a local boy Putu’s scooter taking in the scenic views of gorgeous Lembongan. On a mission to get me orientated with the Nusa Islands, Putu took us to Nusa Ceningan, the smallest of the three Nusa Islands crossing the famous single-lane yellow suspension bridge. If I thought Lembongan a sleepy town, the atmosphere in Ceningan is two notches slower and more remote, yet it was clear that Ceningan was becoming increasingly popular with visible development of new sea-view villas and resorts.

Village after village, the dust from the untarred roads kicked up at us, but no matter, as the glorious views at Blue Lagoon and Ceningan Cliffs quickly made up for the bumpy ride. Whilst we went to Ceningan Cliffs to a look at Nusa Penida across a tiny channel, it was the clear sight of Mount Agung of Bali close by that feathered Putu’s cap.

On our way back to Lembongan, we stopped to watch children flying kites by the seaweed farms. This slow life is fast catching on.


Panorama Point
North Nusa Lembongan from Panorama Point

Putu insisted on going to Panorama Point – supposedly THE SPOT for the most picturesque view of Mount Agung and Lembongan. The sun and sky were not particularly cooperative that evening, and I went away unconvinced, despite a none-too-bad picture. Could both Putu and TripAdvisor be wrong? Or perhaps the gods thought I had collected too many rainbows from the Devil already.

Jungut Batu Beach
Sunset at Jungut Batu Beach. Water bottles waiting to be loaded onto a barge.

The Nusa Islands can be reached by a 30-minute fast boat crossing from Sanur, Bali. Dream Beach and Devil’s Tears are located to the south-west of Lembongan, and is only 10 minutes by scooter from Jungut Batu Beach, its main village. The main mode of transport in Lembongan and Ceningan is motorbike. Tourists can rent it for less than 100,000 Rupiah or USD10 per day with a tank of gasoline. If like me, you are petrified of riding a scooter yourself on Lembongan’s narrow roads with heavy unruly traffic, your hotel can easily arrange for local boys to take you around.